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When assembling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.